New driveway construction
Clearing, excavation, base, and surfacing for a new home, cabin, shop, or lot, sized for the vehicles that will actually use it.
New Builds & Repairs
Driveways built for Northern Minnesota.
New gravel driveways and repairs for potholes, washboard, ruts, and washouts, with local driveway work, material supply, and hauling.
Plan Your Driveway Project
Get a quote for your driveway.
Building a new driveway or fixing a worn one? Share the project location and what you need. We will call to discuss the work, site access, and the next step toward a quote.
Approximate length and width, trouble spots, and your preferred timing are helpful if you know them.
218-556-5898Mon-Fri 7a-5p · Saturdays by appointment
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What this service covers
Driveways
A driveway in lake and timber country has to hold up to frost, spring thaw, loaded trucks, and a winter of plowing. Storlie Construction builds new driveways from raw ground and repairs the ones that are breaking down. Discuss the clearing, excavation, material, and hauling needs together when planning the work.
Driveway repair and regrading
Potholes, washboard, ruts, and washouts fixed by reshaping the drive and restoring its crown, not just by filling holes.
Resurfacing, widening, and extensions
Fresh surfacing gravel on a worn drive, extra width or a turnaround, or an extension out to a new garage or shop.
A practical fit for
Common project needs
- New home and cabin driveways
- Long rural and wooded driveways
- Potholed, washboarded, or rutted drives
- Soft spots and spring washouts
- Driveway widening and extensions
- Parking areas, turnarounds, and pads
New Build Or Repair
What the job usually involves.
Most driveway problems start below the gravel. Whether we are building from scratch or fixing a drive that keeps failing, the work comes down to a firm base and a surface that gets water off and away.
Building a new driveway
- Clear the route
- Brush, slash, and unwanted material removed along the driveway line and any turnaround.
- Strip and shape
- Topsoil and organic material that will not carry a load come out, and the subgrade is shaped to drain.
- Stabilize soft ground
- Class 3 subbase goes down first where the route crosses wet or soft soil.
- Base and surface
- Class 5 placed in lifts and compacted, finished with a crown so water runs off the sides instead of down the middle.
Repairing an existing driveway
- Potholes and washboard
- Regrade to cut out the low spots, rebuild the crown, and top up with fresh gravel so water stops pooling.
- Ruts and soft spots
- Dig out the failed area and rebuild the base with material that can carry the load.
- Washouts and standing water
- Correct the grade, crown, and drainage along the drive so runoff has somewhere to go.
- Worn or too narrow
- Resurface with new gravel, widen the drive, or add a turnaround or parking area.
How To Get Started
A clear path from first call to job site.
Every property is different. These steps give the crew enough context to recommend a practical next move without pretending the job can be priced from a generic checklist.
- 01
Walk the route
Tell us the length and width, what drives on it (cars, delivery trucks, a camper, equipment), and what the ground looks like today. Photos of problem spots help.
- 02
Check the road connection
If a new driveway meets a county or township road, the road authority may require an entrance permit and decide whether a culvert is needed. Start that application early.
- 03
Build it in layers
Clear and strip the route, shape a firm subgrade, add coarse subbase where the ground is soft, then place and compact the gravel with a crown that sheds water.
- 04
Keep it in shape
Every gravel drive needs an occasional regrade or top-up. We will tell you what to watch for after the first freeze and thaw.
One Coordinated Crew
Driveway work, material supply, and hauling in one conversation.
Storlie operates regional pits and its own trucks. We can discuss site preparation, available gravel or recycled aggregate, delivery, and driveway work together to build a project scope. Material is sold and quoted by the cubic yard.
Related Materials
Material options worth discussing.
Availability and the right application are confirmed with the Storlie team before ordering.
Class 5 Gravel
The compacting base under most Minnesota driveways, and a common surface on its own.
See materials →Class 3 Gravel
Coarse subbase that goes down first where the route crosses soft or wet ground.
See materials →Class 1 & 2 Gravel
Surfacing gravels for a harder-wearing top on busy or heavily used drives.
See materials →Crushed Asphalt
Recycled asphalt millings that bind in summer heat into a tighter, lower-dust drive.
See materials →Storlie Pit Desk
How many yards for your driveway?
Enter the driveway length, width, and finished gravel depth for a cubic-yard estimate. We sell and quote by the yard.
How it works: Length (ft) × width (ft) × depth (in) ÷ 12 ÷ 27 = cubic yards. That is the same unit Storlie sells and quotes in.
Before You Call
Questions about driveways.
Have a different question? Call Storlie and describe the job.
218-556-5898How thick should a gravel driveway be?
It depends on the soil and what drives on it. A common starting point for a residential drive is 4 to 6 inches of compacted Class 5 over a firm, prepared subgrade, with coarse Class 3 subbase added where the ground is soft or wet. Drives that carry delivery trucks, campers, or equipment need more. We size it to your site.
What is the best gravel for a driveway in Minnesota?
Class 5 is the Minnesota standard because it compacts hard and sheds water. Class 1 or Class 2 makes a harder-wearing surface on a busy drive, and crushed asphalt (recycled asphalt millings) binds into a tighter, lower-dust surface over a summer of heat and traffic.
How much gravel do I need for my driveway?
Multiply length by width by depth in feet, then divide by 27 for cubic yards. A 100 foot by 12 foot driveway at 4 inches deep is about 15 cubic yards before compaction. Storlie sells and quotes by the cubic yard, so use the calculator on this page and call to confirm.
How much does a new gravel driveway cost?
Cost depends on the length and width, how much clearing and excavation the route needs, the soil, the gravel you choose, and the trucking distance. Call with the length and a few photos and we will talk through a quote that covers both the material and the work.
Why does my gravel driveway keep getting potholes?
Almost always because water is sitting on it. When a drive loses its crown or has low spots, water pools, softens the gravel, and traffic digs it out. Filling the holes does not last. Regrading to restore the crown and adding fresh gravel fixes the cause.
Do I need a permit for a new driveway?
If the driveway connects to a county or township road, usually yes. Hubbard County, for example, requires an entrance permit before an approach is built and decides whether a culvert is needed. Beltrami County takes driveway approach applications through its online permitting site. Check with the road authority for your address before work starts.
Can you clear the lot and build the driveway in one job?
Yes. Clearing, site preparation, and driveway construction can be scoped together, so the route is cleared, shaped, and graveled without lining up separate contractors.
When is the best time to build or repair a driveway?
Late spring through fall, once the frost is out and the ground has dried. Spring load restrictions on Minnesota roads can limit truck weights for a few weeks after the thaw, so book early. Repairs made before winter let the drive freeze in good shape.
Start With The Job
Tell us what needs to happen on your property.
We will ask the right questions, confirm whether the project fits, and help you plan the next step.